On one of those sober and rather melancholy days in the
latter part of autumn when the shadows of morning and evening almost mingle
together, and throw a gloom over the decline of the year, I passed several
hours in rambling about Westminster Abbey. There was something congenial to the
season in the mournful magnificence of the old pile, and as I passed its
threshold it seemed like stepping back into the regions of antiquity and losing
myself among the shades of former ages.
I entered from the inner court of Westminster School,
through a long, low, vaulted passage that had an almost subterranean look,
being dimly lighted in one part by circular perforations in the massive walls.
Through this dark avenue I had a distant view of the cloisters, with the figure
of an old verger in his black gown moving along their shadowy vaults, and
seeming like a spectre from one of the neighboring tombs. The approach to the
abbey through these gloomy monastic remains prepares the mind for its solemn
contemplation. The cloisters still retain something of the quiet and seclusion
of former days. The gray walls are discolored by damps and crumbling with age;
a coat of hoary moss has gathered over the inscriptions of the mural monuments,
and obscured the death's heads and other funeral emblems. The sharp touches of
the chisel are gone from the rich tracery of the arches; the roses which
adorned the keystones have lost their leafy beauty; everything bears marks of
the gradual dilapidations of time, which yet has something touching and
pleasing in its very decay.
The sun was pouring down a yellow autumnal ray into the
square of the cloisters, beaming upon a scanty plot of grass in the centre, and
lighting up an angle of the vaulted passage with a kind of dusky splendor. From
between the arcades the eye glanced up to a bit of blue sky or a passing cloud,
and beheld the sun-gilt pinnacles of the abbey towering into the azure heaven.
As I paced the cloisters, sometimes contemplating this
mingled picture of glory and decay, and sometimes endeavoring to decipher the
inscriptions on the tombstones which formed the pavement beneath my feet, my
eye was attracted to three figures rudely carved in relief, but nearly worn
away by the footsteps of many generations. They were the effigies of three of
the early abbots; the epitaphs were entirely effaced; the names alone remained,
having no doubt been renewed in later times (Vitalis. Abbas. 1082, and
Gislebertus Crispinus. Abbas. 1114, and Laurentius. Abbas. 1176). I remained
some little while, musing over these casual relics of antiquity thus left like
wrecks upon this distant shore of time, telling no tale but that such beings
had been and had perished, teaching no moral but the futility of that pride
which hopes still to exact homage in its ashes and to live in an inscription. A
little longer, and even these faint records will be obliterated and the
monument will cease to be a memorial. Whilst I was yet looking down upon the
gravestones I was roused by the sound of the abbey clock, reverberating from
buttress to buttress and echoing among the cloisters. It is almost startling to
hear this warning of departed time sounding among the tombs and telling the
lapse of the hour, which, like a billow, has rolled us onward towards the
grave. I pursued my walk to an arched door opening to the interior of the
abbey. On entering here the magnitude of the building breaks fully upon the
mind, contrasted with the vaults of the cloisters. The eyes gaze with wonder at
clustered columns of gigantic dimensions, with arches springing from them to
such an amazing height, and man wandering about their bases, shrunk into
insignificance in comparison with his own handiwork. The spaciousness and gloom
of this vast edifice produce a profound and mysterious awe. We step cautiously
and softly about, as if fearful of disturbing the hallowed silence of the tomb,
while every footfall whispers along the walls and chatters among the sepulchres,
making us more sensible of the quiet we have interrupted.
Washington Irving, from Geoffrey Crayon's Sketchbook
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