Obata, Upper Lyell Fork, near Lyell Glacier, 1930
Although my grandmother lived out her long life in the
shadow of Rainy Mountain, the immense landscape of the continental interior lay
like memory in her blood. She could tell of the Crows, whom she had never seen,
and of the Black Hills, where she had never been. I wanted to see in reality
what she had seen more perfectly in the mind's eye, and traveled fifteen
hundred miles to begin my pilgrimage.
Yellowstone, it seemed to me, was the top of the world, a
region of deep lakes and dark timber, canyons and waterfalls. But, beautiful as
it is, one might have the sense of confinement there. The skyline in all
directions is close at hand, the high wall of the woods and deep cleavages of
shade. There is a perfect freedom in the mountains, but it belongs to the eagle
and the elk, the badger and the bear. The Kiowas reckoned their stature by the
distance they could see, and they were bent and blind in the wilderness.
Descending eastward, the highland meadows are a stairway to
the plain. In July the inland slope of the Rockies is luxuriant with flax and
buckwheat, stonecrop and larkspur. The earth unfolds and the limit of the land
recedes. Clusters of trees, and animals grazing far in the distance, cause the
vision to reach away and wonder to build upon the mind. The sun follows a
longer course in the day, and the sky is immense beyond all comparison. The
great billowing clouds that sail upon it are shadows that move upon the grain
like water, dividing light. Farther down, in the land of the Crows and
Blackfeet, the plain is yellow. Sweet clover takes hold of the hills and bends
upon itself to cover and seal the soil. There the Kiowas paused on their way;
they had come to the place where they must change their lives. The sun is at
home on the plains. Precisely there does it have the certain character of a
god. When the Kiowas came to the land of the Crows, they could see the darklees of the hills at dawn across the Bighorn River, the profusion of light on the grain
shelves, the oldest deity ranging after the solstices. Not yet would they veer
southward to the caldron of the land that lay below; they must wean their blood
from the northern winter and hold the mountains a while longer in their view.
They bore Tai-me in procession to the east.
N. Scott Momaday, from "The Way to Rainy Mountain"
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