22 December 2009
Put a cork in it.
Ritual is important to pleasure. In no case is it more important than in the enjoyment of wine. As a server in restaurants, I took great pride in the presentation of wine to my guests. The ritual was a way to allow the guests to take part in grace. I learned this art by reading Hugh Johnson, Joe Bastianich, and studying Chef Hubert.
It does matter. This is art and art requires reverence.
In what context, then, would a screwtop bottle be acceptable? Roger Scruton provides the argument against such an outrage.
"Wine properly served slows everything down, establishing a rhythm of gentle sips rather than gluttonous swiggings. The ceremony of the cork reminds us that good wine is not an ordinary thing, however often you drink it, but a visitor from a more exalted region and a catalyst of friendly ties. In short, thanks to the cork, wine stands aloof from the world of getting and spending, a moral resource that we conjure with a pop."
The rest is here.