It was AA Gill who sent me to eat at St John, about 15 years
ago. I went there alone, so compelling a case did he make, and I ate as much as
I could off the menu. After my meal I remember tottering unsteadily into the
kitchen, getting on to my knees and bowing down in front of Fergus. It really
was the
restaurant of my dreams. I loved absolutely everything about it: the
attitude, the look, the food, the wine.
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